mfpen's New Balance 991v1 Uses Surplus

The mfpen x New Balance Made in UK 991v1 'Surplus Leathers' will be released on September 3. Only 90 pairs will be made, according to mfpen founder Sigurd Bank in an interview with Hypebeast.

Bank explained that the collaboration was a natural fit. He stated that New Balance has always felt connected to his brand, recalling styling early mfpen collections with his own worn-in New Balance sneakers. The 'normy, dad-core look' of the 99 series specifically appealed to him. This debut silhouette from mfpen x New Balance embraces the footwear brand’s archival history, while staying true to mfpen’s design philosophy and lived-in feel.

Materials and Production

All upper materials for the shoe are surplus from past production runs at New Balance's factory in Flimby, England. Bank visited the facility to sort through old stocks of leathers and materials. Everything was available in different quantities and with different options, which directly led to the extremely limited release of just 90 pairs. The shoe's upper is constructed from a mix of tumbled nubuck, pigsuede, and mesh. This use of leftover materials aligns with mfpen's established production values, which historically center on deadstock, surplus, and upcycled fabrics, as well as conscious mitigation of overproduction.

Design Details

A key design feature is the treatment of the classic New Balance 'N' logo. The collaborative model tones it down with a debossed finish, lending a minimalist sensibility. Bank admitted he has a hard time with logos. He views toning down the 'N' as a simple way to alter the silhouette while keeping a recognizable New Balance reference. This subtle debossed stamp is not a new invention. It is actually pulled from the New Balance archives. Applying the archival detail to the nubuck upper proved challenging. After some trials, the factory succeeded by debossing every single logo by hand. Bank expressed appreciation for that manual process, noting it made each pair feel connected to the factory and its history.

Release Information

The limited drop of 90 pairs will occur on September 3 at 12:00 CEST / 11:00 BST. The shoes will be available offline at mfpen's Copenhagen store and at Dover Street Market London.

Related Preview

The unveiling of this 991v1 comes just weeks after the brand previewed a New Balance 992 at its SS27 runway presentation at Copenhagen Fashion Week. That mfpen 992 prototype takes a more stripped-back look even further, featuring merely the shadow of an 'N' logo that appears as if it were torn off. An official release date for that 992 silhouette has not been announced.