The Long Road to Success in Menswear
Becoming a successful menswear brand takes time, with many popular labels being at least 10 years old
Menswear's hottest brands may seem like overnight successes, but they all have one thing in common: they have been around for at least 10 years. This undermines the notion of anyone becoming a true long-lasting overnight success. It takes time to develop a brand's craft and to get the word out to consumers.
The Importance of Time and Effort
Few brands are born fully formed, and it takes time to get good at their craft. Labels like AURALEE, Soshiotsuki, and ssstein are now being treated as fresh talent, but they were all founded in 2015 or 2016. Danish label mfpen earned a lot of buzz after its well-received Spring/Summer 2027 presentation at Copenhagen Fashion Week, despite having been a known quantity for at least half a decade. Our Legacy was newly reconsidered to be one of the standard-bearers of good taste, despite celebrating its 20th anniversary last year.
Breaking Through to the Mainstream
Some brands come around to hype much quicker, such as A.Presse, which turned five this year and is already set to conquer the world. Rier launched in 2019 and is already a staple of good-taste stores across the globe. However, in most cases, it takes a decade for good stuff to break through. The pain of patient adoption is a major factor, as brands like AURALEE and ssstein take time to sink in due to availability or visibility issues.
The Role of Fashion Weeks and Partnerships
Fashion weeks still play a crucial role in making connections and helping brands cross over to mainstream success. mfpen is now established enough to participate in Copenhagen Fashion Week, while Camiel Fortgens, AURALEE, and ssstein are now Paris Fashion Week regulars. Partnerships and awards have also helped brands like Our Legacy and Soshiotsuki earn wider recognition. Our Legacy earned its place in broader culture with Stüssy partnerships and Dover Street Market placement, while Soshiotsuki won the LVMH Prize.
The onus is partially on retailers and partially on consumers to take a chance on unknown labels and uncover the great talent of tomorrow today. With so much quality clothing being produced by quality labels remaining underdiscussed, it is up to consumers to look beyond the established brands and discover new talent. By doing so, they can help to create a more diverse and vibrant menswear scene.
